|Model||Wrangler JK Unlimited|
|Item Weight||25.8 pounds|
|Product Dimensions||48.5 x 28.5 x 12.8 inches|
|California residents||Click here for Proposition 65 warning|
|Item model number||10918-07|
|Manufacturer Part Number||10918-07|
|OEM Part Number||10918-07|
|Cover Included||Flares, Hardware, Instructions|
Flat Style Fender Flares maximize your tire coverage and wheel articulation for severe off-road use. Carefully engineered to install with a minimum of extra tools and bodywork (see the installation guide for your specific vehicle for details). For example, our mounting brackets bolt straight onto...
I will make this review as useful and simple as possible. These are not too difficult to install as long as you have all the right tools (i did except the pry tool), do not have any missing parts (push pins and panel holding pins were short on my order), and all the holes line up (mine did not, specially for the screws that go up from under the flares.Now for a set of PLASTIC fender flares these are waaaaay too expensive and not finished right, there were a lot of plastic pieces on and around the edges left over. The holes that were drilled out had plastic left over on the inside, you can cut it flat with the box cutter but the problem was that they were drilled in the wrong spots. So i had to drill it into the right spot and that would make the hole too big (what a mess).IF and WHEN i ruin one or multiple of these fenders i am going all aluminum Poison Spyder fenders. I know it is double the cost but hey, i know they will do the job better (my friend has it on his JEEP JK and loves it, and they do look awesome and will take a hit on the trail).I mean these were missing push pins, no extra bolts or nuts (not even 1 extra each nut, bolt, washer)Misaligned holes.Half a$$ed finish around the edges and holes themselves.So bottom line:Would i recommend this? YES, To the knowledgeable person who can make things work even in worst scenarios.Would i buy them again? NO. I will go another route.Would i buy them again if it was $250? YES, because to me that is a fair price for these flares.Pictures Before and after (I love the looks, but too expensive for the overall quality)
I found the installation to be a little difficult. I had read it takes 4-8 hours to install, so I gave myself a weekend to do it. It took me 7 hours to install the drivers side front, so I made it into a two weekend project. The other three took 4-5 hours each to install. Most people should finish faster, though. I kept running upstairs to watch the installation videos because I can't get a phone signal in my garage. The instructions were mostly adequate, but there are a couple of youtube videos that help out a lot. Make sure you have all of the recommended tools and then some, and make sure all the parts are there before you begin. You will also want to make sure your sockets fit your socket wrenches and extensions, as you may need adapters. Cutting the splash shield is probably the hardest part. I found sheet metal shears and a utility knife to be helpful. I also used an angle grinder with a cutting disk, but I think a small jigsaw would have been better. The edge trim goes on easier if you use an awl to open up the gap, and if you slide the trim on before you remove the tape. Removing the clips worked well with upholstery pliers and a mini pry bar. Drilling the plastic rivets in step 8 was really hard because the drill would just spin on the plastic and not go through. I found using the mini pry bar and some cutting pliers worked a lot better. Step 12 is very crucial. Leave a lot of extra material, then trim it after step 43. The splash shield is very wobbly and you won't know if it fits until you push the flare all the way in. I cut a little too much off one shield, and I had to drill a couple of holes in the shield and screw in another strip of plastic to cover the gap (between step 44 and 45) The speed clips in step 16 go on easy if you stick a flat head screwdriver in them to open them up. The threaded portion is the side that is not flat. It helps to color the areas around the hole with different colored china markers so you know the position of the clip after you put the flare on, since you won't be able to see much of the clip. Make sure you use the crescent end of the wrench in step 18, or your wrench will get stuck. Be very careful not to push in the plungers on the retainer clips in step 27 until they are all installed, and push the clips through the plastic pieces before you mount them as you may have to open up the holes a little. Do steps 32-35 before 28, it is a lot easier to do the crimping and heat shrinking when the wires are disconnected. You can probably use electrical tape if you don't have any shrink tubing. Make sure you slide on the shrink tubing on before you crimp the wires. The crimping is easy, you just have to make sure the wires are in contact with the metal part inside the wire connector. You don't need to disconnect the battery or anything. You will probably have to trim the plastic wire cover, too. I think the wires are 14 AWG. It also doesn't hurt to mark the white wire with white electrical tape or shrink tubing since it will be covered. The white wire plugs into the black wire and vice versa. Turn on the headlights to check it. Funny, I had always assumed these were turn signals, but they are side marker lights (see youtube if you want to convert them). You will definitely need a 8" socket extension for step 37. The nut should be flush with the outside of the socket, so don't use a deep socket. I don't like this part of the design because there is no way to replace the light without removing the flare. In step 41, you will want to tape the red liner to the outside of the flare to hold it in place. In steps 44-45, you really have to shove the flares tight against the Jeep in order to find the clips. I had to stick the awl in the hole to hold it in place while I picked up the screw. Put one screw in, tighten it halfway, then work your way around. I had one flare that was really warped, so it can be difficult. You will need a lot of strength to push it in firmly. I also had to tear open the screw holes in the flares a little bit with the awl. Make sure you don't pull the tape in step 47 too fast, it could break. I needed to use the pry bar and cutting pliers in step 53 since the upholstery pliers didn't fit very well. You might want to use something else to hold the splash shield in place in step 58 because the retainers will get damaged when you pull them out. Once I finished, I was really happy with the look. I would have preferred a design with a pre-cut splash shield, replaceable lights, and one that lined up the holes better so you don't need physical strength to have the flares flush with the Jeep.
The brand name "Bushwacker" flares are nice. I first bought some imitations off of Ebay that used the official "Bushwaker" pics, then found out they were fakes from China. I had to get Ebay involved to get my money back. The REAL Bushwackers are made in the USA and I noticed the quality right out of the box. They are very nice, everything is included in the box (kit), but personally I think they are overpriced (that's subjective). They were harder to put on than I first thought, but I am picky and had to have them line up "just right". Overall I'm glad I bought them, but beware of the fake ones from China. The difference is night and day, and if you're like me, you don't want to put something that cheap on your JK. Good Luck!!
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